Repairs

Plumbing repairs

Leaks, dripping taps, running toilets, seized shut-offs and pressure that has quietly dropped off over the years. We find the actual cause, fix it properly, and tell you in plain language what went wrong.

Plumbing repairs

Most plumbing calls start small. A tap that needs an extra half-turn, a patch of damp on a basement joist, a toilet that runs for a few seconds every hour. Left alone they get expensive — and the expensive part is rarely the plumbing. It's the floor, the ceiling and the cabinet underneath.

Older South Shore houses throw up their own problems: copper spliced into plastic spliced into galvanised, supply runs narrowed by decades of scale, and shut-off valves that haven't been turned since they were installed. That's the housing stock we work on every week, so we know where these things tend to fail before we open anything up.

What we repair

Leaking and burst supply lines — copper, PEX and mixed systems
Dripping taps, mixing valves and shower cartridges
Running or leaking toilets, flapper and fill valve work
Seized, weeping or failed shut-off valves
Low water pressure — diagnosis before parts
Frozen and split pipe repair
Outdoor taps, hose bibs and frost-free replacements
Washing machine, dishwasher and ice-maker supply lines

Call (902) 350-6153

Worth a call

Signs it's time to call

A leak you can see is a leak you can plan around

The ones worth worrying about are the ones you can't. If your bill or meter says water is moving and nothing is running, call — that's a leak inside a wall, under a slab or below grade, and it doesn't improve on its own.

Signs it's time to call

A damp patch or brown stain on a ceiling or basement joist
The water meter creeps up with every tap in the house closed
A bang or shudder in the walls when a tap shuts off
Pressure that has dropped off across the whole house
Green or white crusting on a copper joint
A tap that needs an extra turn to stop dripping
A toilet that refills on its own between uses

Repair or replace

We'll tell you which one we'd choose

Plenty of repairs are worth doing. A cartridge in a good-quality tap, a fill valve, a section of pipe — those are cheap fixes that buy years. Others are throwing money at something that's already at the end of its life.

You'll get told which one you're looking at, what a repair realistically buys you on a fixture of that age, and what a replacement costs. Then it's your call, not ours.

The actual cause explained, not just the symptom fixed
Price and options before any work starts
Parts that match what's already in the house where it matters
Work left to code, tested before we leave
The site left tidy

Recent work

Before and after

What a proper repair looks like when it's finished.

Old corroded water service entry and meter in a basement, with bare pipe and no backer board — **Water service replacement** A corroded service entry rebuilt onto a plywood backer board — new expansion tank, new meter set, and every run strapped and routed so it can be worked on again without guesswork.

Replacement water service on a plywood backer board with a new expansion tank, meter and neatly strapped copper and PEX — **Water service replacement** A corroded service entry rebuilt onto a plywood backer board — new expansion tank, new meter set, and every run strapped and routed so it can be worked on again without guesswork.

Common questions

Before you book

Can you fix it, or does the whole thing need replacing?

Usually we can repair it, and where we can we will. Where we can't — a tap body that's pitted through, a toilet with a cracked tank, pipe that's failing in more than one place — we'll say so plainly and price both options so you can decide.

The whole house lost pressure at once. What does that mean?

Whole-house pressure loss usually points at something shared: the main shut-off partly closed, a pressure-reducing valve that's failed, a clogged filter or screen, or on a well system a pump or pressure tank problem. It's worth a call rather than a guess — the fixes are very different.

Should I shut the water off before you arrive?

If water is actively escaping, yes — close the main shut-off and open the lowest tap in the house to drain the pressure out of the system. If it's a slow drip into a bucket, leave it and we'll deal with it when we get there.

Do you work on galvanised pipe?

Yes. It's common in older Lunenburg County houses and it comes with its own habits — threads that seize, sections that crumble when disturbed, and internal scale that chokes flow long before anything leaks. We'll tell you honestly when patching it is a false economy.

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